Mirador del Duque

Three pools step down the terraced gardens toward the Atlantic, all kept at 28°C through the winter: the lower two are the social ones, ringed by loungers and within reach of the swim-up bar. Even in February the water feels like late summer.

The upper level is the one worth planning a day around: an adults-only infinity pool that catches the sun until it drops behind La Gomera, with padded daybeds that go early. Worth knowing: towels are included, but the daybeds on the top level work on a first-come basis and are usually claimed by mid-morning.

A large four-star on the quieter edge of Costa Adeje, a short walk above Playa del Duque and its beach promenade. The gardens are the real architecture here: pools, palms and pathways stepping down toward the sea, with most rooms looking over some part of it.

Rooms are bright and recently refreshed, if standard-issue for the coast; the junior suites on the upper floors get the La Gomera sunset. Breakfast is a large, capable buffet. Here's the thing: the neighbourhood restaurants outdo the half-board dinner, so book bed and breakfast and walk five minutes for dinner instead.